« Foz Do Iguaçu / Sao Paulo »

Day 7: Thursday, March 7, 2002

We took a direct flight from Rio to Iguassu, which strangely enough stopped in Sao Paulo.  We flew Tam airlines and found it rather satisfactory.  They showed Pink Panther cartoons during the flights and had prompt and efficient service.  In a testament to their efficiency in a direct flight that had two legs each lasting only an hour, they were capable of serving two meals.  The only oddity in the travel is they did not allow the use of any electronics for the duration of the flight.  Bill was shamelessly scolded for listening to his walkman while in transit.

Considering our inclement weather the previous day, Celio offered to take us to the Itaipu Damn, a helipad, back to the hotel, and then to the airport for an extra $100.  We agreed and even I had now softened to his Brazilian charms.

The Itaipu tour starts with a movie providing some perspective about the structure.   For those of you who are not familiar, this is the worlds’ largest hydroelectric power plant.

- 93.4 billion kWh, world record of Electric Energy Production

- Itaipu supplies 25% of the energy consumed in Brazil.

- The Itaipu spillway can handle a flow 40 times greater than the average of the Iguaçu Falls.

- The total volume of concrete used in Itaipu would build 210 stadiums like Maracana (Rio de Janeiro)

- The construction iron and steel used at Itaipu would build 380 Eiffel Towers (Paris)

Unsurprisingly, it is even considered by the American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE) as one of seven wonders of the modern world.

We later found out that damn touring was altered and strictly regulated after the terrible misgivings of September 11.  However, the tour is still impressive.  The bus tour still stops at two photo stops with different angles of the damn, and includes scenic rides along the base of the damn into Paraguay and then returns to Brazil on the top of the damn.  While Itaipu is not as visually stunning as the Hoover Damn, it is still worth a viewing especially after hearing all of its technical merits.

Following Itaipu Hydroelectric Power Plant, we decided to take a helicopter ride over the falls.  We had debated taking a helicopter ride in Rio, but unfortunately it never made it on the schedule.  Anyway this 10 minute ride over the falls was utterly amazing.  Complete with two laps around Devils’ throat, the trip provided spectacular views for everyone in the helicopter.  After the ride we ate, packed our bags, and enjoyed one last lunch at the pool-side restaurant.

The aerial viewpoints from the plane while flying into Sao Paulo gave us our first indication how massive this city really was.  It seemed to spread out infinitely in every direction.  There is no real concentration of massive skyscrapers, simply 35 story buildings as far as you could see in every direction.

We landed and hailed a cab to the Renaissance Sao Paulo, a Marriott Hotel in the middle of the trendy Jardin's neighborhood.  The hotel was top notch filled with all amenities you would expect from a new deluxe hotel chain.  The lobby bar was filled with people sipping cocktails all dressed for show.  The one thing about Sao Paulo is that people are always dressed a little nicer.  You need to be well kept regardless of where you are planning to go.

Unfortunately, we arrived late and had to miss a dining extravaganza planned by our hosts Sandschafer and Galesi.  They had planned a dinner at Jardineira Grill, a well renowned Churrascaria.  In speaking with guests later we hear the meal was fantastic.

After unpacking our stuff, we decided we would finally drink our Dom Perignon.   The hotel had a prestigious cigar bar complete with a dance floor and occasional live music.  We thought this would be a great place to drink the champagne.  Jon called to confirm that we would be allowed to bring our own liquor and they obliged.  However, it was a different story once we arrived.  I politely confirmed that we were bringing a bottle of champagne to their bar and if they mind if we drank it there.  She had to check with her supervisor who was now refusing entry with the bottle.  This infuriated Jon to no end, who begin letting the manager know how he felt.  The manager softened his stance and said we could bring the bottle in if we agreed to pay 60% of the price they charged.  The were selling the bottle for 500 Reals, so for 300 Reals (about $150) we could drink our free bottle of champagne.  Naturally, we declined.  We asked Cigar manager about the lobby bar, and he said they would follow a similar policy.

Jon was still hot.  I was frustrated, but decided to work with the concierge to find an appropriate locale to drink the champagne.  She first proffered our hotel room, which I politely declined.  She said we could try the cigar lounge, which I said was a great idea but they were charging an incredulous amount to drink it there.  I said I would not mind paying a corkage fee, but $150 seemed a bit excessive.  She said if we did not mind drinking it in the lobby bar, she would have them set us up a table.  I said great, next thing we knew the hotel manager was setting up a table and serving us Dom.  We felt so cosmopolitan – drinking very expensive champagne at a chic hotel bar in South America surrounded by the pretty people.

After our good luck with the concierge, we decided to use her services again for recommending dinner and a bar.  She recommended “Baretto” a high end steak house, that was as fashionable as it was tasty.  We were greeted with an open massive door, the door to the restaurant must have been 15 feet long and 25 feet high.   The one wall of the restaurant was black marble with water running down its side.  We goofed on each ordering are own appetizers which although customary in the US, clearly was not at this place.  Each appetizer would have fed about five people and we had four of them.  The beef was great and we each had a different cut.  The steaks were prepared and served different in the US.  Dana had the filet mignon which did not resemble the looks of a filet you would receive in the US, but still tasted very good.  

The other thing of interest about the restaurant was their bathrooms.  I think part of being hip and trendy is having cool bathrooms.  Anyway the interesting thing about these rooms was the wash basin.  Along the wall was a mirror, a short marble backed waterfall, a 2 feet gap, and sink.  Upon placing your hands in the gap, a more pressurized stream of water turned on to allow you to better clean your hands.  Sounds fairly neat, but not exceptional right?   Well the interesting thing was the gap was shared by both restrooms, women's and men's.   So, while I was finishing my business at the urinal, I could see woman’s hands entering the men’s restroom in efforts to clean themselves.  Now, that was unique.

After dinner, we hit a jazz club for some cocktails and live music.   The band was very good and the place was pretty hip.

Day 8